John Parise, my Italian “godfather” from New Jersey, visited St. Helena this weekend. John, Stewart Viets and I had a retreat of sorts discussing captive insurance companies and their role in business succession planning. (I'll discuss that in a weekday edition).
John, who owned an Italian restaurant in his twenties, made the following incredible Saturday night dinner: Clams Casino, Italian Mixed Green Salad, and Pasta with Meatballs (and Spareribs and Sausages!) Sauce. The pasta dish was a true Sicilian meat extravaganza -- very rich and even better the second day. All recipes follow except the Clams Casino – John won’t divulge the secret recipe.
According to John, the key to Italian cooking is start sipping wine 30 minutes into cooking and add a dose of music, preferably jazz. We went with Stan Getz.
That's Stewart (left) and John (right). For wine pairing, if we were in Italy, we’d have a Barolo. Here, Stewart chose Cakebread’s 2007 Dancing Bear Howell Mountain Cabernet and Grassi’s 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet. Perfecto!
Here are the recipes:
Pasta With Meatballs (Spareribs & Sausages)
Ingredients:
1 pound pork spareribs
2 pounds Italian sweet sausage
2 pounds mixture of veal, beef, and pork (or meatloaf mix)
White wine
4 large cans (28 ounces each) crushed tomatoes
2 eggs
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ loaf Italian bread
14 cloves garlic
1 onion, chopped
1 bunch basil
1/2 bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped
Salt
Pepper
Olive oil
Milk or water
1. Bake 2 pounds of Italian sweet sausage in the oven at 350 degrees while you are making the sauce.
2. Sprinkle salt and pepper on the pork spareribs. Braise the spareribs in olive oil in a large pot.
3. When the spareribs are almost browned, add 4 cloves of coarsely chopped garlic. 4. After the spareribs have browned, remove the pork from the pot. Add 1 chopped onion, 6 cloves of coarsely chopped garlic, and a good handful of chopped basil.
5. Add white wine to deglaze the pot and add flavor, around 1 to 1-1/2 cups. Let it cook a few minutes.
6. Add 4 cans of crushed tomatoes.
7. Add Parmesan cheese.
8. Add some salt and pepper but not too much. You have to test the taste as you go. If you put in too much salt at this point, you won’t be able to reverse the saltiness.
9. Add the spareribs back in and mix well.
10. Take out the sausages from the oven, cut in half (or whatever size will make it easiest to eat). Add the sausages to the pot. Add another half a handful of chopped basil.
11. Put on slow heat and cook for a total of 5 hours.
12. Stir appropriately, which is more than occasionally and enough so you don’t burn the bottom of the sauce.
13. After an hour or so, start the meatballs. Cut off the ends and the bottom of half the Italian loaf. Soak it in milk or water until completely soaked. If the bread crust isn’t absorbing the milk (or water), take out that part of the crust.
14. Mix the pork, beef and veal mixture with 2 eggs (basically 2 eggs per pound of meat), 4 cloves of finely chopped garlic (i.e., 2 cloves per pound of meat), one cup of grated parmesan cheese, ½ bunch of finely chopped Italian parsley, a little salt and pepper.
15. Drain excess milk or water from the bread and put the bread into the meat mixture. Mix all by hand and shape into meatballs. The size should be appropriate to the pot, but you should have 20 to 25 meatballs. Extras can be saved in the freezer for the next batch.
16. Fry or bake the meatballs until cooked, about 10 to 15 minutes. When cooked through, drop the meatballs into the sauce. Continue cooking for 3 more hours, stirring as appropriate.
Homemade pasta
2 cups water
4 eggs
2 cups flour
1 to 1-1/2 pounds ricotta cheese
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
½ bunch Italian parsley, chopped
Salt
Pepper
1. Mix 2 cups water, 2 eggs, and 2 cups flour in a medium size mixing bowl. Add salt and pepper to flavor. Mix well to get the consistency of a thick and creamy crepe mix.
2. In a separate medium bowl, mix the ricotta cheese and 2 eggs. Add the parmesan cheese, par Take a pound and 1-1/2 pounds of ricotta cheese, 2 eggs, mix in separate bowl, add ½ cup parmesan cheese, add ½ bunch parsley, salt and pepper. Mix well.
3. Cover the cheese mixture with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about an hour.
4. While the cheese mixture is in the refrigerator, start making the crepes.
5. Heat a small non-stick pan on medium heat. You can spray Pam. Fill a small ladle with the crepe mix and cover the bottom of the pan. Each crepe should be around 4 inches in diameter. Cook until the crepe is cooked on the bottom, then flip once for around 30 seconds Place cooked crepe on aluminum foil and let it cool. This is very thin (not thick like a pancake) so cooks very quickly. The thinner the crepe, the better.
6. Lay the cooked crepes on aluminum foil, cover with another sheet of aluminum foil and let them cool. You can also refrigerate them in advance and take out when needed.
7. When the pasta sauce is finished, take some of sauce and the coat bottom of a baking pan. Take each crepe and fill the center with 2-3 tablespoons of the cheese mixture and roll like a tube. Lay each cheese-filled crepe flat in the sauce in the bottom of the pan. One the pan is filled with crepes, lightly cover the tops of the crepes with the sauce. Do not use a lot of sauce. Grate parmesan cheese on top to taste. Sprinkle a half a handful of fresh chopped basil and sprinkle over the top.
8. Bake at 350 degrees for about 40 minutes. Don’t burn the bottoms.
Garlic bread
Ingredients:
One good loaf of Italian bread
¼ pound butter
3 cloves of garlic, chopped finely
Grated parmesan cheese
Fresh oregano
Fresh basil
Jarred Italian style roasted peppers (with garlic), finely chopped
8 olives, finely chopped
Cut the loaf in half lengthwise and then into halves.
Lay each quarter in a baking pan, crust side down.
Melt butter in microwave for 15 seconds until soft. Spread butter over all 4 quarters of bread.
Sprinkle the following (in order) over bread: garlic, parmesan cheese (generously), oregano, basil (not too much, just enough to get flavor), roasted peppers, olives.
Drizzle with olive oil.
Cover with plastic and let sit in the refrigerator for an hour or more.
Fifteen minutes before dinner, bake at 350 degrees until lightly browned.
Italian Mixed Green Salad
Ingredients:
2 cloves of garlic, crushed in bottom of bowl
About 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar, preferably white balsamic
Salt and pepper to taste
Handful of chopped basil
Juice of ½ lemon
½ cup parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon fresh oregano
Handful of fresh chopped basil
Olives to taste
Roasted red peppers (left over from garlic bread recipe)
Artichoke hearts marinated in oil
Cucumbers and whatever else you would like
Baby spring mix
1. Mix all ingredients together and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate. The longer the ingredients marinate, the better.
2. Immediately before serving, add to baby spring mix and mix well.